Oh, lol yeah, by the way, ...RoboJoe has a small favor to ask of ALLLLLLLLL of his loyal and upstanding customers. :D I would like to ask, ....I mean, .......I would GREATLY appreciate it if .......if .............if ............I come out of your basement ....after fixing your dryer, ................and I have a really HUGE WAD OF LINT ...........lol ......................hanging from my forehead?
.........................could you PLEEEEEEEEZZZZE ............please, please,
.............TELL ME?????? :D You know, ......that ........I have a REALLY HUGE WAD OF LINT lol ................hanging from .............my forehead. :O :D
It's ok. REALLY! You can say it. ;)
Seriously. It's A-OK! lol Just say it. Say: "Hey Robo." lol :D "You have ...a REALLY HUGE lol ....WAD OF LINT :D .....hanging ............from your FOREHEAD!" :D ;)
That would be great. :) ;)
'Cause, you see, ....so ..........THIS WAY .............I will NOT arrive at my NEXT customer's house ................lol ...................with a .....REALLY HUGE .....WAD .....OF........................... LINT ..............lol
HANGING .............FROM MY FOREHEAD. :/ :D :/
Thank you. :(
Yeah, ....ummmmm, .....I would really appreciate it. ;)
A LOT. :/
There are 2 types, countertop and overhead.
Countertop microwaves are not worth repairing unless you spent over $300.00 to buy it! That's just all there is to that! Overhead microwaves are almost always worth repairing as long as you spent over $500.00. Not much to go on, aye. Well, if something goes wrong here, unplug the unit immediately and call a professional! No messing around on these. Microwaves can be extremely dangerous! Now, we all know not to put any metal objects in there right? So, you ask, what practical advice can I give you on these? Okay, never crawl inside your microwave, close the door, and set it for 3 and a half minutes! This could hurt you or a loved one. When running, that transformer puts out 2000 volts. If you take one apart, watch out! There is a capacitor in there that holds a charge even when it's not plugged in! Warning, all you big, strong, brawny, macho, hairy chested guys, trying to make an impression on your gal. I say that because I only have 1 hair on my chest that I have been coddling and nurturing and trying to preserve since puberty. You would be better off saving yourself some possible embarrassment and just leaving it the hell alone! If you touch "that thing" the wrong way, it will blast you across the kitchen floor. Your wife will be on the phone with 911 and you will be taking a horizontal ride to the hospital where you will spend the next day on a heart monitor! How do I know? Well, you just don't do this kind of work for as long as I have without gettin' "lit up" every now and then. Save yourself the trouble. Keep your chest hair. As much as you don't want to, ...please, ....call a damn technician!
There are 4 stages in a wash x 2. Fill, cycle, drain, and spin. There really isn't much that you can do for preventative maintenance on a washing machine and there are so many different body style designs that I could never in good conscience recommend attempting a repair on your own unless you are educated on how your machine comes apart. If you do this and lose all the screws, and "I" have to re-assemble it, ...well, ...I charge ten dollars extra for that. However, for those of you currently seeking to buy a new one, here is some basic information that you may find valuable.
There are 3 styles, domestic top loaders, high efficiency top loaders (no agitator) and front loaders.
Top loaders are available with 2 different drive trains. There are belt driven and there are direct drive models. The only real difference is that belt drive models have a belt and direct drive models do not. Top loaders typically use about 30 gallons of water per load. They spin out at approximately 600 to 800 RPMs depending on what model you have. In the state of California, top loaders are currently being outlawed for the sake of water conservation due to an ongoing drought and low water table. If you are currently in the market to buy a new washer, I would like to strongly suggest you consider buying a front loader. To be quite honest, all the top loaders being sold today are absolute JUNK. Most of them are only lasting 2 to 4 years before something fatal occurs and it becomes completely unusable and not worth the cost of repair.
Front loaders might be a little more expensive to buy at first, but they are so much more efficient in energy savings and performance that they will usually pay for themselves within 2 to 3 years, which makes them a better investment for the long haul. They typically use about 5 gallons of water per load and spin out at approximately 1200 to 1600 RPMs. Your clothes are almost completely dry at the end of the cycle which cuts dry time by more than half. You save on water and electricity. Always try to avoid washing carpets, rugs, and house pets in your washing machine. This will save wear and tear on your pump and motor. Take that stuff to the laundry mat and wreck their machines instead. ;)
For high efficiency washers, regardless of whether they are top loaders or front loaders, always use detergent marked "high efficiency" (HF) on the box. This is extremely important because ...if you use any other type of detergent, it could cause damage to the machine, or at the very least cause your clothes not to wash clean properly. Always fill your washer at half to 3/4 full of clothes on each load. Too small of a load is just as bad as to large of a load. If you want your clothes to spin out properly, ....you will want to follow this advice precisely.
If your washer is over 25 years old and the timer goes bad, buy a new washer. They are built far more energy efficient now than they were back then. You will save enough money on electricity for your investment to pay for itself quickly. In the years after that it becomes profit earned by what you save every time you wash your clothes.
When your washing machine breaks down, usually, it will be well worth repairing, unless it is a complete rust bucket. Call a technician.
And, ...just to make it even "more" worth your time, ....here is the grand finally:
Wanna save money on your electric bill? Change out all the incandescent and curly Q light bulbs in your home and replace them with LED (light emitting diode) bulbs. A little more on the front end, but will pay for itself in 1 month. After that ...it's pure profit. My electric bill has now been reduced by HALF!
You're welcome. :D ;)
There are many types of water heaters. Some are gas and some are electric. The type you buy will be based on what type of utilities you have in your home. And, just like dryers, make sure if you are on propane (LP) that your water heater is set up to burn propane! Water heaters have 2 valves. A pressure relief valve at the top, and a drain valve at the bottom. If you want to extend the life of a water heater, you can perform a regular routine maintenance procedure called a "blow down" involving the 2 valves. You should be doing this once every 3 months. This procedure goes as follows: Use a bucket to catch the water. Pop the top valve and let some water out. If the water is orange, run until clear. You have just skimmed the top. Now open the bottom valve until the orange water runs clear. You have just skimmed the bottom. And that's it! You have just "blown down" your water heater. There is no way to repair a water heater that leaks. If your water heater is leaking, ...it must be replaced.
Following this protocol will "double" or even "triple" the life of your water heater. Especially if you do it right from the start of a new installation. It takes less than 5 minutes and doesn't cost you a dime!
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This material was written specifically for "you"! :))
Copyright © RoboJoe Industries Major Appliance Repair. All rights reserved.
"Shit! Shut the damn thing off! Hurry up! For Christ sake, you're flooding the kitchen floor! Hurry up! Hit the button! Pull the latch! Open the door! Do something! Fast! Holy crap! Don't panic! What a freakin' mess! Just stop the damn thing right now!! Didn't I just tell you not to do that? Well, didn't I? Yes I did!! I just told you, not even 30 seconds ago, didn't I ? I distinctly remember telling you "not to do that!" I just KNOW I did! lol
Note: I do not usually say words like shit, damn, or hell when I'm in a customers house. After all, I am tryin' to run a freakin' company. (lol) It's just not proper etiquette. However, for sake of expression here in this environment, I figure, ....if you are old enough to be able to read this material and ...are mature enough to have an interest in the first place, .....you have most certainly heard those words before!
You see? Isn't this fun? :))
Okay, now, if this happens to you I suggest that you clean up the water right away before it warps your hardwood floor and your spouse comes home from work and sees it! I do not do marriage counseling! Once you get the mess cleaned up, take all the dishes out and put them in the sink. Now, you have to get the water out of the dishwasher. If you run it, ...well. lol So, scoop out the water with a coffee cup. You can now run the machine for 30 seconds. Let it fill, run it for 30 seconds, and drain it. Now you can run it through a whole cycle. I recommend , actually, running it through at least 3 to 5 cycles with no detergent whether it is still leaking or not. As much as you hate doing dishes by hand, I'm afraid there's no way around it. Take some aspirin and get it done. The reason why this happened is that water can become over saturated, especially when using a softener system. In other words, it becomes "too wet". Contrary to popular belief, you should never have suds in your dishwasher. Suds are an indication of using to much detergent. If your dishwasher is running well, and, out of the blue, it suddenly develops even a slight leak at the bottom of the door, you are probably using too much what? "Detergent!" Damn it.
Okay, ...well, ....I'm havin' a great time with you. You are all very fine folks and I want to say thank you for reading this. I applaud you. "Golf clap." You are smarter than I thought. Keep going. You're doing good now. If it leaks from underneath and the water just "rolls" out, your pump is leaking. If your dishwasher will not fill, cycle or drain, .....call a technician. He will tell you to go buy a new one and bring it home, and then you can call him back and have him install it for you. lol
Warning: Adult language, violence, and nudity. Okay, well, there's no violence or nudity, but definitely some adult language. Parental guidance is advised.
Uh, well apparently ...I don't really have a lot to say about these, ....according to the information. They are nice to have around but when they break down it is usually not an emergency ...unless you happen to be missing one of your house pets. If it does happen, chances are you will probably not be able to repair it on your own. That's pretty much all there is to it! If you happen to have done this, please write an entry into my Facebook page and tell me about it. I love a good story. Otherwise, considering what you paid for it when you bought it, .....they are "usually" well worth having repaired. Call a technician!
Good a' title as any, ...I guess.) lol :/
A very delicate subject. There are three stages in a wash x 2. Fill, cycle, and drain. Same as a washing machine, only, leave out the "spin" part. Well, ...just think about it for a second. lol You see? ;) In the case your dishwasher "does" spin ....that’s also a time to call an exorcist. Okay. Here, we do have something to talk about! You may get agitated when I say this, but, I have to say it anyway. If your hot water temperature is less than 120 degrees, your dishwasher does not work! Period. If you think it does, then you are disillusioned! Detergent does not even activate at any less than 120 degrees, no matter what kind you use. A reference to good health. You can test this by holding a thermometer under the tap on your kitchen sink. You can adjust the temperature of your hot water to 120 degrees by turning the little knob on your water heater to 120 degrees. ;)
There! I have repeated "120 degrees" 3 times in a row just so that you will remember this! :D
Always, "always" rinse your dishes before placing them in the dishwasher. Otherwise there is a very good chance that your dishes will not come clean. Aside from that, ...issues with wash-ability, cloudiness, etching, or suds, are always attributable to over use of detergent. Yes, I said "over use"! Glass is made out of sand. Know what detergent is made out of? Sand! That's right folks! If anyone asks, well, ....you just tell 'em "Robo" told you so! Oh, detergent can cause "all kinds" of problems. Most manufacturers tell you to fill both cups. Absolutely do not do this! I simply cannot stress this enough. No matter what type of detergent you use, never use more than 2 tablespoons! If you are using capsules, break them in half. It's just too much! Using too much detergent will absolutely cause damage to your pump seals, your door gasket, the rubber coating on your dish racks, your dishes, glasses, plastic, silverware, your plumbing, and your septic system. Furthermore, I must insist that you, please, always use a rinse aid, such as Jet Dry. Rinse aids are evaporating agents. All dishwashers require the use of rinse aid. That is the way they were designed! Follow my prescription and your dishes will come out immaculate, you will save money on repairs, septic maintenance, and detergent! Now, ...here is a lesson better reading about rather than learning it on your own. Listen very closely! Are you listening? Get real close to the screen. lol "Never", I repeat, "never" use dish soap, hand soap, body wash, shampoo, laundry detergent, or any other type of cleaning chemicals or agents in your dishwasher. Most other detergents are very highly concentrated. If you do this, whether it be intentional or by accident, there is a very good chance that you are
going to be having ....a
....."FLOOD!" :O :))
The same basic principles apply with furnaces as do ovens, stoves and ranges. Heat and vent. Now, furnaces are the most dangerous of them all! They are "quite deadly"! Not only could you go out with a "bang", but these creatures are also notorious for killing in silence at night when it's dark in the house. When not a creature is stirring, not even a mouse. That's right, I'm talking about carbon monoxide. It is absolutely crucial that your furnace runs properly and precisely ...as this is such a finely tuned instrument. All that I will tell you is keep the filters clean and make sure you have a nice, crisp, clean blue flame at all times. Are you scared? Well, don't be. All modern furnaces have factory built in safety components just like all other modern appliances. Gas and exhaust have 2 completely different smells. It is very important for you to be able to tell the difference. Gas smells like a rotting carcass and exhaust smells like burnt fuel. If you ever smell gas and it is in any way overwhelming, get the hell out of the house, run to a neighbor and dial 911! Folks, I cannot stress this enough. Even just a little static electricity created by you picking up the telephone can set off an explosion! So, please heed my warning on this! If you smell exhaust or see soot, ....shut the furnace off and call a technician. If you really are worried, well, .....you should talk to your shrink about this. Otherwise, you can buy a carbon monoxide detector at your local hardware store. They aren't that expensive. And, actually, I suggest it ......just because I care! Change your filter every 3 to 6 months and that's it. Another reference to good health.
Thank you for taking the time to read this article. :)
Always keep your proof of purchase or receipt when buying a new appliance. Manufacturers are required to honor a one year warranty on all mechanical and electrical components. It's the law! Some manufacturers actually cover their products for 2 years or more on specific components. You should always fill out the warranty card that comes with the appliance when you buy it and send it in as required by the manufacturer. This will help you by giving you more credibility if and/or when you attempt to file a claim. You must present proof of purchase to the place where you bought the appliance, in order to proceed with any claim. I recommend keeping receipts from all major purchases for ten years. It's just a good practice to follow.
Ovens, Stoves, and Ranges:
Oven = Built into the wall.
Stove = Cooktop. Built into the counter.
Range = Free standing, or built in, contains both an oven, and a stove.
There are 3 types, gas, electric, and hybrid or "dual fuel" - (gas and electric)
All 3 operate on the same basic principles as a dryer only leave out the "tumble" part. Just heat and vent. Well, just think about it for a sec. You see? lol Okay, the most common problems associated with any of these ...is no heat! Duh! :/ lol :D All of these have thermostats, controls, and sometimes, interface boards. The only basic difference in how they operate is in their source of heat. Electrics run on 220 volts. This will not only light up your eyeballs, but it will also body-slam you to the floor with the force of a WWF heavyweight wrestler! Now, ...just because you heard it from me does not give you cause to go and try it. :/ How do I know? lol Uhhh, well. (grin) Yup! That's right. :/ Now, ....electrics have what are called "elements" and gas burners have "igniters". These both burn out like a light bulb, and eventually, they will! No way around it. If you are attempting to replace an element on your own, make absolutely sure you unplug the unit before doing this. There are 2 wires connected to the element and 1 is always "energized". Remember what I just said about 220? (Ouch! Holy crap!) And, again, .....if you are on propane, just like dryers and water heaters, make sure you have it "converted" to burn propane. If you have a problem with over cooking or undercooking, first make sure it's not the cook. These can usually be calibrated within 20 degrees up or down. Not the cook, silly, ......the oven! Cooks can only be calibrated by your reaction to the meal that they just worked so hard to make for you. Usually not more than 4 or 5 degrees anyway, unless you're real frisky. :O Call a what? A technician! Very good.
I would also like to suggest that you try to avoid using the self clean function. Self clean = self destruct! . Self clean takes out control boards because of the excessive heat involved in ashifying the residue accumulation on oven walls. You are much better off just buying some non-toxic fumeless oven spray and simply wiping your oven clean. This can very well save you a very expensive repair. ;)
Note: If you have a glass top, avoid spillovers at all cost. Although you can't tell by looking, ...glass is porous. When it is hot, the pores are open and when it is cold the pores are closed. That is called "expansion" and "contraction". When you spillover, the sequence is as follows: The glass is hot and the pores are open. The beef barley soup boils over. The soup hits the glass. The glass cools. The pores close. Now you have beef barley soup permanently embedded into the glass. That is now locked in there for good! You can never clean that off! It's just that simple. Now, ....you didn't listen too me on the dishwasher, do you want to find "this" out the hard way too? lol :D Those glass tops are very expensive to replace. So, for "your" sake, .....I hope you're paying attention now! :/
Washers, Dryers, Dishwashers, Garbage Disposals, Compactors, Microwaves, Ovens, Stoves, Ranges, Furnaces:
If a technician ever tries to sell you a repair at a cost of more than 75% of what it would cost to buy new and uses high pressure sales tactics, throw him out of your house "immediately"! Do not let him back in! Not even for coffee! And, make sure he takes all his tools with him! He is not your friend. Call his company and lodge a complaint. This is called "gouging" and it goes against the technicians code of ethics. A licensed, seasoned technician will have knowledge in physics, chemistry, electricity, mechanical movement, thermal - dynamics, plumbing, soldering, safety, warranty laws, manufacturer specifications, psychology, social etiquette, standards, and practices in the field. They will be familiar with the EPA laws associated with their licensure, and at the very least, like myself, they will not use words like "shit", "damn", or "hell" while doing service in a customers house. lol After all, ...there may be small children present. When dealing with a technician in your home, if you want respectable service, there is one general principal that you can apply. "Be good to your technician and your technician will be good to you!" Oh, and, well, ....if you have indoor mountain lions, please, lock them in the bedroom before you answer the door. (jeees o peeets) The stories I could tell. Anyway, the truth is, .....I need your business just as much as you need your appliances fixed.
Refrigerators and Freezers:
Ok. There are 2 numbers that I want you to remember. They are 0 and 36! You need 2 thermometers. And I'm just bettin' that, ...probably right about now, yer thinkin', "naw"! Well, then think a-damn-gain! That's right. Have I lied to ya' yet? Think about it. Are ya' thinkin'. Ya' know what else I'm bettin'? I'm bettin' that after you read "this", you will most definitely be putting a thermometer in your freezers and your refrigerators and located right in a position where you can see them readily when you open the door! lol Yeah. That's what I'm bettin'! What were the magic numbers? 0 and 36! That's 2 more numbers that I have now repeated for the second time redundantly for your convenience. lol :D Wanna know why? The freezer should be at 0 because that is the temperature that keeps your frozen food freshest longest. If you have a built in modular ice maker, 0 is also the factory designed temperature that runs "it" best no matter what brand you have. Your ice maker should harvest 1 dump per hour. That's 8 cubes. 200 cubes per day - for you math experts. ;) Too warm runs slow. Too cold runs slow. Hint: If you open your freezer door and see a "blizzard", your freezer is too cold! You are freezer burning your food! Make an adjustment! The refrigerator gets its cold air from the freezer. If the freezer gets too cold it can freeze the food in your refrigerator. Ahhh, ....nothing tastes better than frozen lettuce. :/ Why 36 in the refrigerator? 'Cause, .....Salmonella! That's why! That's food poisoning - y'all! Spreads like wildfire! If This happens, yer gonna "know" it. Trust me on this one. And, ......remember the dishwasher incident. Need I say more? lol :D Okay. Even at 32 degrees, your fresh food is deteriorating. But, at 36 you can control it for a bit of time and you won't risk freezing the food in your refrigerator. At 38 your milk won't last 3 days. Trouble keeping those temperatures? Clean the condenser once a year. If you don't know what a condenser is, or if that doesn't solve the problem, call a technician. To prolong the life of the door gaskets, simply wipe them down with warm soapy water once a month. This will prevent rotting and tearing due to sticky food spills.
First of all, do not dump an entire pan of moldy broccoli and cheese into your disposal all at once and "not" expect a jam. Turn on the "hot" water and carefully feed it in just a little at a time. You'll just have to deal with the smell. Well, hey, ...you cooked it. And secondly, you absolutely should grind up 2 heaping handfuls of ice cubes once a month. This will keep the blades sharp. Always run hot water (at least 120 degrees :D) while grinding food. This will prevent fatty solids from forming on the inside of your pipes. Do not ever, I repeat again, for a second time redundantly, do not ever put anything into the disposal that is not of "grind-able" material or you will damage the blades. Also, if you have a jam, do not ever put your hand, your foot, or any other body part into the garbage disposal. Use someone else's. Call a technician! Another reference to good health.
Common Sense Practical Advice For Appliance Repair
You will want to read this if you are a home owner, want to save money, or are bored and desire to be entertained.
Digital Electronics: (computers, chips, and boards)
If you have a computer, you know it is wise to have it on a surge protector. The usual way is to plug the surge protector into the wall and plug your computer into that. Well, if you are like most people, you might have , say, a stereo, or a big screen television. Do you have surge protection on those? The truth is, almost all appliances built today, including washers, dryers, dishwashers, microwaves, ovens, stoves, ranges, downdrafts, vent hoods, refrigerators, freezers, ice machines, humidifiers, dehumidifiers, compactors, furnaces, and more have computer chips, and boards. (Here we go with the "and more" thing again.) These can be expensive to replace. Especially if you have a lightning hit that takes out 6 or 8 of them all at once! Or more! Yikes! Okay, well, you see? Isn't this fun? It is just not very convenient to have 20 surge protectors scattered all over the house. So, I recommend that if you have any concern about this, you can call an electrician and have them install a surge protector right at your circuit breaker box, cable, and phone line utilities. There is no way to control a lightning hit! However, if you have "main" protection, you can file a claim against the company that produced it and they will have to honor your claim. It's the law! A surge protector IS an "insurance policy". I always take a lot of calls after a good thunderstorm.
Window Air Conditioners, Central Air Conditioners, and Dehumidifiers:
Freon should never just leak unless there is a direct cause for that. It is against the law to "top off" the freon without making the necessary repairs in order to stop the leak. If you paid less than 1000 dollars for your unit and the compressor goes out and it is out of warranty, (always make sure) don't bother having this one repaired. It is just not a wise investment. Buy a new one. Anyway, make sure you know that is what the problem is first! 95% of the time, the problem is not going to be related to freon or the compressor, rather the coils being clogged and not getting enough air flow. The clogging usually happens on the inside of the case. They will lose their efficiency and you will call me. I will take it apart and clean it from the inside out. This should be done every 3 years routinely. Otherwise, you are spending more money on electricity and overheating the compressor, which will cause it not to cool properly until it eventually sputters out altogether. It does require a federal license to repair these unless the problem is electrical or mechanical, such as a fan, a relay, or a switch, in which case ...fiddle at your own risk. You know what that means. Right? These have capacitors just like microwaves. It only takes one good jolt and you won't be doing that anymore. Well, ...in most cases anyway. "You", ....well, I'm not so sure about. lol So, you better know what you are doing. Otherwise, just don't go near the damn thing! Clean the condenser once a year or have a professional do it and leave it alone. And that's it! If you have "any" problems whatsoever, ....do I really need to say it. Well, okay, here goes. Call a technician!
Well, ...who DOESN'T like to save money?
You think all that other stuff was complicated? These either work, or they do "not". There are relays, reversing valves, pressure switches, thermal sensors, computer controls, evaporators, condensers, compressors, fans AAAAHHHHH!!! lol And I could go on and on and on! Clean the condenser once a year. And, again, if you do not know what one is, call a technician. If you have trouble with your water quality, install an in-line filter. And, that's it folks! There! We just simplified a "huge" array of possible difficulties. We also just saved a whole lot of my writing time and your reading time as well. Too many things can go wrong to list here. If you have any questions, please feel free to call me. (989) 666-5023 I would be quite happy to explain it too you. Let's just say that if you have enough money to buy one, you can afford to have it repaired once in a while. And that's really all you need to know about these. I know just how incredibly important it is to have ice. So, get on the phone ...and call a technician.
RoboJoe Industries Major Appliance Repair
(989) 666-5023 Save Up To $1000 A Year!
Now, students, ...today we're going to be talking about, ....you guessed it, ....."appliance repair". So, come on in! Kick your shoes off! Make yourself comfortable! Have a cup of coffee! You just may want to stay for a while! You will want to read this if you are a home owner, you care about your appliances, or, you are bored and desire to be entertained.
Note: Whenever buying a new appliance, no matter what it may be, I like to recommend that you buy American and try to keep it as "cheap" and "simple" as possible! The more money you spend, the more angry you're going to be when it pukes out. Just remember, the more bells and whistles (options and features) it has, ...the more there is that can go wrong with it and the more expensive it is to repair! In other words, these days ....spending more money .....does not ensure that it will last any longer than if you had spent less. The fact is, in this day and age ......pretty much the entire world economy is now basically modeled on "built in obsolescence".
Okay then. lol So, ...are you ready?
Here we go! :D
*We do appliance repair. Based in Shiawassee County in Lower Michigan, RoboJoe Industries Major Appliance Repair Serves the following locations:
Bancroft, Byron, Corunna, Durand, Gaines, Lennon, Linden, Morrice, Owosso, Perry, Swartz Creek, Vernon and all surrounding areas in and around Shiawassee County
Call RoboJoe Industries Major Appliance Repair at: (989) 666-5023
There are 2 types of dryers, gas and electric.
The basis by which you choose to buy one will usually be decided by the type of utilities you use in your home. Otherwise, they all basically operate by the same principles. Heat, vent, and tumble. If you notice that any one of these things are not happening, then something is wrong. The only preventative maintenance you can really do is keep the lint screen clean and be sure there are no obstructions in your vent. The formula for vent chasing is as follows: 30 feet with no bends, 20 feet with 1 bend, 10 feet with 2 bends. Any configuration outside these parameters will cause the unit to not dry efficiently. If it heats at all, check your venting before calling a technician. This could save you a service call. All gas dryers come set up for "natural" gas right from the manufacturer. If you are on propane and have a gas dryer ...make sure it has been "converted" to burn propane. As with washers, unless you have a complete rust bucket, a dryer will usually be worth repairing ...as long as you avoid running it over with the car. The stories I could tell. All modern dryers come with factory built in safety components. Lint fires are very rare and usually only occur if the dryer is not vented properly, or has built up lint accumulation next to the burner or heat element or you light it on fire with a match. All dryers are dangerous if not attended to "properly"! If you are concerned about this, have it checked out by a professional. If you experience any problems with a dryer, unplug the unit immediately and call a technician. If it dances, sings, or whistles, ....call an exorcist or a shrink.